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  1. Tji-hi, ja etter å ha lest tråden min, har du inntrykk av at jeg gjør som alle andre? For å si det sånn : Hvor mange kjører med turbo foran? Å hvor mange har turbo bak? Litt forskjellige svar der ikke sant, hehe. Moro å tråkke nye stier. Men for å være helt ærlig er ingenting spikret enda, så vi får se hva det blir. Turbo delene er ikke høyprioritert akkurat nå, disse delene dukket bare opp til rett pris nå. Må først ordne med sprut, slik at overladding kan utnyttes.
  2. Det er ikke toll, det er den norske momsen. Denne må du betale.
  3. Hehe, er visst noen som har sett Flåklypa litt mer enn meg, men du har rett, beklager. Hadde vært moro å fått det til ja, er mange som har kommentarer på den monteringa, kan man si. Bare se her: http://www.bilforumet.no/teknisk/167174-div-spm-om-remote-turbos.html
  4. Heisan, sveisan alle sammen. Da tar vi en liten update igjen. Grunnen til at det er en stund siden, er at jeg bruker bilen!!!! Hver dag!!!! Å hvem ville ikke gjort det??? Den fungerer så fint nå at det er veldig fristende å bruke den til alle mulige slags ærend, hehe. Så i dag tok jeg en liten service på den: Bytta olje, oljefilter, plugger, bensinfilter, luftfilter, termostat, kjølevann, osv. Ikke noe voldsomt da, men greit å gjøre før sommeren slår til for fullt. Men det skjedde ikke uten blodspilling. Taket på fastnøkkelen glapp, når termostaten skulle av: auuu! Siden sist var jeg ikke helt fornøyd med hvordan gearkassa jobba: den gearte mykt ned, å tidlig opp. Dette tiltross for at Lokar, som lager den throttle valve kabelen jeg kjøpte, mente at den skulle være bolt-on på Holley gasseren min. Etter litt snurfing på nettet kom jeg over denne siden: TV Cables Powerglide, Parts and the latest information on upcoming parts for you powerglide performance application by Sonnax at powerglide.com Her sies det at både utveksling, plassering, å preload blir feil, med å bare montere som den er. Hmmm, dette må testes, så det ble laget en corrector plate, å preloaden ble åsså testet ut med div fjærer kjøpt på Bilextra, å litt fuel slange fra RC bilen.. Etter litt fram å tilbake, så det slik ut. Ojsann, NÅ funka den som den skulle, kontant men ikke beinknusende gearinger, både opp og ned, alt i skjønneste orden. Det trenger ikke å være så vanskelig hele tiden. Så en dag dukket disse opp på posten. Hmmm, to Garret T3 fra Cossie 4x4. Å jaggu var ikke denne i postkassa i dag. En el. olje pumpe som er perfekt til det jeg har tenkt. Dette betyr at nå har jeg turboer OG pumpa jeg trenger for å teste REMOTE MOUNTED TURBOS, eller som jeg liker å kalle det: Trunk Twin Turbo= TTT. Time will tell, som Blodstrupmoen sa.
  5. Ja, siden svar på en god del spørsmål om RMT sto der, å det ikke virka som noen leste den siden, klipte jeg og limte.(hvis det hjalp noe da). For å si det sånn: jeg sier ikke at dette er det mest optimale systemet, det er det heller ikke bygd for, i utgangspunktet. Dette er tross alt turbosystem som er ment å monteres på standardmotorer. I dag er de aller fleste motorer ganske høykomprimerte. Dette begrenser hvor mye du kan ladde. Derfor er ikke disse systemene på 1000 hk. Når det er sagt, går det flere biler "over there" som tar stripa på 9 sek, med STS kit, men der er det selvfølgelig jobbet med motoren også. Det bare beviser at det går å få bra effekt ut av RMT prinsippet. Ja, det kan være at du taper noe energi der bak, men jeg tror dere glemmer å se helhetsbildet som dette sytemet utnytter på en annen måte enn front montert. Det er vel ingen som betviler at temperatur er et problem med turbo under panseret vel??? Ok, dette problemet forplanter seg over flere områder: varm turbo= varm olje, varm innsugsluft, varmt under panseret som krever ekstra temp. isolering, osv. Derfor må man da ha intercooler, som gir trykkfall og motstand, oljekjølere, og turbotimere. Disse tingene skal jo selvfølgelig åsså plasseres en eller annen plass under panseret. Å ikke minst sliter jo temperaturen mer på turboen. Hovedpoenget må jo være på en mest effektiv måte få en kaldest mulig luft(som dermed inneholder mest mulig oksygen) inn til motoren ikke sant? Å jo mindre den varmes opp, desto mindre trenger den å kjøles ned, enig? Alle disse problemene er borte med RMT. Så summa summarium får du en mer effektiv overlladdning per psi du ladder. Å husk: dette gjelder uåpnede motorer. Et lite eksperiment: få en kompis til å sitte inne i bilen, mens du står bak. Med motoren igang, legg handa over eksosen. Be kompisen rappe på gassen. Klarer du å kjenne noe forsinkelse?
  6. Ok, vi kan jo begynne med denne: Benefits of Remote Mounting Ease of installation. STS turbo systems can be installed in about 8 hours with standard tools and average mechanical ability. Performance Sound. The turbo acts as a muffler and sounds like an aftermarket performance muffler. Turbo spool and rushing air from the blow-off valve make a unique sound that will turn heads! No need for major modifications to your vehicle. STS systems are designed to "bolt-on" to factory mounts. Increased gas mileage. Unlike a belt driven supercharger, the turbo utilizes "wasted" energy leaving your tailpipe. Most of our customers get 1-3 mpg increase in gas mileage. Lower underhood temperatures. No need to worry about melting wires, hoses, or other components. Converts back to stock in about an hour. More room under the hood. Future repair work or modifications will not require the expense of removing the turbo system to allow access to engine components. Cooler oil to the turbo. Cool oil is better for both the turbo and engine. Approximately 500F lower turbo temperatures. Eliminates the need for a turbo-timer, which allows the engine to run after the car is shut off in order to cool down the turbo and prevent oil and bearing damage. Denser exhaust gasses drive the turbo turbine wheel more efficiently. Built-in intercooling. Intake piping provides ~50% intercooler efficiency. There is no need for the expense, pressure drop, and installation problems associated with a front mounted intercooler. Turbo is exposed to ambient air rather than underhood air. Allows for better cooling of turbo components. No need for expensive headers, mufflers, or exhaust systems. Turbo is closer to the tail pipe outlet. Provides a better pressure differential across the turbine wheel which promotes better flow across turbine. Better weight transfer. Increases traction because the bulk of system is mounted in rear of vehicle rather than up front. Less noise in the passenger compartment. Sjekk disse videoklippa: http://www.ststurbo.com/tacoma_at_the_lake Å her er svar på alle spørsmål: With the turbo so far back, don't you get a lot of turbo lag? No, our turbochargers are sized to operate at this remote location. Just like any turbocharger, once the turbo is up to temperature and in the rpm range for which it was designed to operate. The boost comes on hard and fast. All of our systems will produce full boost below 3000 rpm. If you were to take a conventional turbo and place it at the rear, you would have lots of lag and consequently, our turbo wouldn't work properly if mounted up front. Back to Top Doesn't water get into your engine with the filter mounted down low? No, every kit includes either a snorkel kit which locates the air filter high in the rear quarter panel or an air filter shield. We also include an Outerwears Dry Charger which is a "sock" that protects the filter under very dusty or wet conditions. The only thing you don't want to do is completely submerge the filter. This would draw water through the filter and into the intake tubing. For most vehicles that would mean you would have water coming in your doors before you'd have a problem with the turbo's air filter. Back to Top Without a muffler, how does the vehicle sound? The turbo does an amazing job of muffling sound. Most people think it sounds like a performance muffler. You can add a high flow muffler to the system, but most of our customers like the performance sound with just the turbo. Back to Top How long does it really take to install your system? Average install times are about 8 hours for first timers. Our install techs usually spend 4-6 hours for a typical install. Back to Top With so long of intake and exhaust tubes, doesn't it take a while for the boost to build up? No, our intake tubing volume is about the same as most conventional turbo setups that are running a front mounted intercooler, and less than many of them that run large intercoolers. We aren't talking about a small compressor filling up a large air tank, we are talking about a huge compressor filling up a very small volume which only takes a fraction of a second. Our systems compress the intake tubing in about .05 seconds. So much for turbo lag... Back to Top How is the turbo lubricated? Our system uses the engine's pressurized oiling system to supply the turbocharger. This pressurized oil travels approximately 12 feet through tubing which dissipates heat out of the oil just like an oil cooler to provide cool oil to the turbocharger. The oil is then scavenged from the turbocharger via an electric oil pump which returns the oil to the engines valve cover through another long length of tubing which again cools down the turbo-heated oil before entering the engine. Back to Top With the turbo located under the fuel tank on the Camaro, doesn't it heat up the fuel? We have done temperature testing on this issue and found that the factory heat shield does a great job of preventing the transfer of heat into the fuel tank. The temperature of the air on top of the heat shield only rose about 15F higher than ambient temperature with a full boost run. The only time you might see an increase in actual fuel temperature would be during extensive stationary dyno testing when there isn't any substantial airflow around the turbocharger and rear of the car. We recommend running a full tank of gas for any dyno testing. Back to Top Does installing a STS turbo system void my vehicle's warranty? No, it is illegal for a dealership to void your warranty simply because you have modified your vehicle. It is the dealership's responsibility to prove that a modification was the reason for a failure. With that said, some dealerships are more performance oriented and are more willing to work with customers. We suggest consulting with your local dealership regarding their warranty specifics. For additional questions, see the Magnuson Moss Warranty at http://www.enjoythedrive.com/content/?id=8124 Back to Top How much boost can I run with this turbocharger? The basic kits run 5-6 psi boost. The turbocharger on our basic kits is capable of producing higher boost of 15+ psi. However, in most cases a larger turbocharger would be more efficient at higher boost levels. There is more to running higher boost than just turning the boost up. You must also be able to meet the fuel demands of higher boost as well as set up the engine to handle the extra power so that you don't cause mechanical failures with the engine. Higher boost will also raise the "boosted" compression ratio of the engine that will require higher octane fuel to prevent detonation. Bottom line - Don't crank up the boost unless you have done your homework and made the necessary modifications to handle the boost. We handle high boost applications on an individual basis to ensure that you are getting the right turbocharger setup for your specific needs. Back to Top What happens if something goes wrong with the oil pump? In the event of an oil pump failure, the system is equipped with an alarm which will sound inside the vehicle to warn you that you are experiencing an oil system problem so that you can prevent any damage to the turbo or engine. This alarm is designed to warn you of any problems with the oil pump well before a complete shutdown of the pump. Back to Top If water hits the hot turbo, will it crack? Seems like it might when you first think about it, however, when I asked the Garrett engineers this questions they just laughed. There is a big difference in water splashing on a hot turbo and submerging it in enough water and fast enough to really cool it down fast. Both the new turbocharged Vette systems and the new Porsche systems sit the turbo down low and exposed to water and anything else that goes under a car. Plus, our turbos just don't get that hot and when weather conditions are such that there is a lot of water around, you can't push enough boost to get the turbo hot anyway because you'd just spin the tires. Back to Top What type of tuning is needed with this setup? We recommend tuning with any forced induction. There are a variety of options available from custom dyno tuning, to mail order tunes to FMUs. Our recommended tuning solution is Nelson Performance in Texas. He has tuning available for the GM vehicles and his tuning package can be purchased through the STS Power Dealers. For more information see Tuning on the Products page. For Toyota trucks running additional boost we recommend a FMU and an aftermarket fuel pump. For high boost applications we recommend a fuel pressure regulator combined with the Unichip tuning solution. All of these parts are available through your local STS Power Dealer. Back to Top Is a turbo timer or pre-lube device necessary with your system? No, the turbocharger temperatures on our systems are approximately 500F cooler than turbo temps on conventional systems so the oil doesn't get hot enough to carbonize in the turbocharger bearings. With the turbocharger located where it is exposed to ambient air rather than trapped under the hood, the turbocharger quickly cools down as well so cool down times after runs don't need to be 5 to 10 minutes. As far as pre-lubrication, our system incorporates our "Wet Start" system which keeps oil at the turbo inlet at all times so that the turbocharger has an instant oil supply at start up. Back to Top Do I need to put headers on to optimize the turbo system? No, the extra expense and work to install aftermarket headers isn't necessary. Headers are designed to eliminate backpressure in the exhaust system and facilitate exhaust scavenging and flow on normally aspirated engines. Turbocharged engines work on slightly different principles. Namely, there is exhaust "Pressure" between the cylinder heads and the turbocharger because the turbocharger is the smallest diameter orifice in the exhaust system. The turbine housing gets smaller in diameter to increase the velocity of the exhaust gasses before they hit the turbine wheel. This is how you get 100,000 rpm wheel speeds. Turbocharged exhaust gas pressures can see as high as 30+ psi on high boost applications. So spending money on higher flowing exhaust components designed to lower exhaust backpressure is usually a waste of money. This money would be better spent on an upgraded turbocharger which would produce more efficient boost with less backpressure or just spending the money on upgrading the engine and fuel system to handle more boost. Back to Top Doesn't heat create the velocity in the exhaust gasses to spool the turbo? No, heat doesn't create velocity. Heat creates volume. If you look at any of the physics laws for gasses, you will find that pressure and volume and heat are related. PV=NRT is a popular one, The V isn't for velocity, it is for Volume. The turbine housing is what creates the velocity. The scrolling design that reduces the volume of the exhaust chamber as it scrolls around causes the gasses to have to increase in velocity and pressure to maintain the same flow rate. Hotter gasses have more volume, thus requiring a higher A/R which in effect means that it starts at say 3" and scrolls down to approximately 1". Lower temperature gasses are denser and have less volume, so they require a lower A/R housing which would start at the same 3" volume, as the turbine housings use standard flanges, and scroll down to say 3/4". Now if you were to reverse the housings in application, the conventional turbo would spool up extremely quick, at say around 1500 rpm but would cause too much backpressure at higher rpms because the higher volume of gas couldn't squeeze through the 3/4" hole without requiring a lot of pressure to force it through. On the reverse side, the remote mounted turbo with its cooler denser gasses, wouldn't spool up till say around 4000 rpms but once spooled up would make efficient power because it doesn't require hardly any backpressure to push the lower volume of gas through the larger 1" hole. Back to Top How efficient is the intercooling from your tubing? At 5 to 6 psi we typically get at least 50% intercooler efficiency numbers from our systems and some of the truck systems which have better exposure to cold air are even better. Combine this with a pressure drop of only about 1/4 to 3/4 psi and it makes for very good numbers. Testing on our LS1 produced the following results: Turbo outlet temps at 5 psi boost were 175F and intake temps were 115F which is about 52% efficient. Turbo outlet temps at 8 psi boost were 225F. This is a 50F increase with only 3 psi added to turbocharger boost. For those wanting to run more boost we recommend a front mounted intercooler. We sell bolt-on solutions for the Hemi and the GTO. We will be coming out with more applications soon. Back to Top Isn't there a huge pressure drop with such long intake tubes? No, if the pipes were 100' long there would be but we are only talking a few extra feet and we size the charge air tubing so that it will flow without a large pressure drop. We typically will get about 1/4 to 3/4 lb difference between the turbo compressor and the intake manifold, which is nothing compared to the pressure drop across an intercooler. With high boost applications, these numbers will increase slightly. Back to Top Don't turbos have to be really hot to work properly? Putting a torch to your turbo and getting it hot doesn't produce boost. What produces boost is airflow across the turbine which causes the turbine to spin. If turbochargers required very high temperatures to produce boost, Diesel trucks and Methanol Race cars wouldn't be able to run turbos. However, each of these "Low Exhaust Temperature" vehicles work very well with turbochargers when, like any turbo application, the turbocharger is sized correctly. In a conventional, exhaust manifold mounted turbocharger system, the extra heat causes the air molecules to separate and the gas becomes "thinner" because of the extra space between the molecules. This extra space increases the volume of air but doesn't increase the mass of the air. Because the volume is higher, the velocity of the gas has to be higher to get it out in the same amount of time. By mounting the turbo further downstream, the gasses do lose heat energy and velocity, however, there is just as much mass (the amount of air) coming out of the tailpipe as there is coming out of the heads. So you are driving the turbine with a "denser" gas charge. The same number of molecules per second are striking the turbine and flowing across the turbine at 1200F as there is at 1700F. Front mounted turbos typically run an A/R ratio turbine housing about 2 sizes larger because the velocity is already in the gasses and the volume is so big that the turbine housing must be larger to not cause a major restriction in the exhaust system which would cause more backpressure. With the remote mounted turbo, the gasses have condensed and the volume is less, so a smaller A/R ratio turbine housing can be used which increases the velocity of the gasses while not causing any extra backpressure because the gas volume is smaller and denser. Sizing is everything with turbos. There is more to sizing a turbo for an application than cubic inches, Volumetric Efficiency, and RPM ranges. A turbo must also be sized for the exhaust temperatures. A turbine housing sized for 1700F gasses would have lag if the gasses were 1200F. This is why turbo cars have lag when they are cold and not warmed up yet. Both systems work well if sized correctly. Back to Top How much octane do I need to run a turbocharger? We recommend running Premium gasoline on vehicles that are running 5 to 12 psi. Back to Top What about ground clearance with the turbo down low on Camaro? Ground clearance hasn't been a problem as all of the kit sits higher than the stock equipment. The lowest areas are near the wheels which give it added clearance going over bumps. Back to Top What is the difference between a Supercharger and a Turbocharger? First of all, there are a couple different types of superchargers (positive displacement and centrifugal). The most popular these days seems to be the centrifugal supercharger which is basically the same design compressor as a turbocharger compressor. These compressors both increase in airflow and efficiency with impeller RPM's. (Which basically means that doubling the impeller RPM doesn't double the airflow, it increases the air flow exponentially.) So in the case of the supercharger, where it is directly run from a belt and pulley attached to the crankshaft which ties impeller RPM in a direct ratio to crankshaft RPM, the boost increases linearly with engine RPM. Example: If you want to run maximum boost of 8 psi, you would gear the drive pulleys to produce 8 psi at maximum engine RPM. Lower RPM's would produce less boost linearly. I.E. 8 psi @ 6000rpm, 5 psi @ 4500rpm, 3 psi @ 3000rpm, and 2 psi @ 2500rpm.) Thus, maximum boost is only attained at maximum engine RPM which only lasts for a fraction of a second then when the engine shifts to the next gear and the RPM's drop back down, so does the boost which then builds up again with increasing engine RPM's. Supercharged engines produce good "maximum rpm" dyno numbers. Don't be fooled by maximum dyno numbers. Unless you have a "Snowmobile Clutch" in your vehicle which allows your engine to stay at peak RPM all the way down the track, what you need is "Usable Power" which comes from sustained boost levels across the entire RPM range. This is where the Turbocharger outperforms the Supercharger. By using exhaust gasses to drive the turbocharger you gain two benefits: First is that you don't pull Horsepower off of your crankshaft to drive the compressor (Just like you wouldn't replace your electric fan with a large "belt driven" fan or run your A/C down the track because these devices take Horsepower to run as does a Supercharger compressor capable of pumping 50 pounds of air per minute @ 8 psi). Secondly, since the turbocharger is driven by exhaust gasses, the more air the turbocharger puts into the engine, the more exhaust gasses the engine produces, which in turn produces more turbocharger RPM's and air discharge or "Boost". So, to sum it all up, the turbocharger can go from literally "No Boost" to "Full Boost" in a fraction of a second because of the compounding effects of the Compressor Efficiency increasing with impeller RPM's and the compounding effects of the Exhaust Gas increasing exponentially with increasing Boost. So if you are only concerned with Peak Dyno Numbers the supercharger does produce good "Peak" numbers, but if you want "Full Boost" across a broader RPM range along with those high "Peak" Dyno numbers. The Turbocharger is a better solution. Back to Top Is their any way I could upgrade once I build a shortblock to handle more boost or will I have to buy an entire kit again? That is the beauty of the turbocharger. If the engine is built to handle it, power can be gained by simply turning up the boost. The turbo kit does not need to be upgraded. However, there are several turbocharger upgrade options which will be more efficient at higher boost levels. The stock turbo is capable of 15 psi boost with some loss in efficiency. We recommend putting on the turbo that best suits your end result goals from the start of your project. This will remove the need for a turbo upgrade later. Then when you are ready for higher boost, just flip the switch on our dual stage boost controller to "HI" and your upgrade is that easy. Back to Top If I want to run higher boost will I need a bigger wastegate? Running higher boost doesn't require a larger wastegate, in fact in most situations running lower boost requires a larger wastegate than high boost applications. The wastegate flows exhaust out to lower the boost level. The lower the boost requirements, the more exhaust has to flow through the wastegate valve. Running higher boost will require a stiffer wastegate spring or the use of a boost controller. Our Electronic Dual Stage Boost Controller works very well and gives you the option of Hi or Low boost at the flip of a switch. Back to Top How does your dual stage boost controller work? The electronic dual stage boost controller lets your wastegate operate normally on the "low" setting on the switch. When you flip the switch to "high" the system adds pressure to the other side of the wastegate diaphragm. You can choose how much pressure is added, 0-5 psi or 0-15 psi. The "high" setting is adjustable and once set at your predetermined amount, will give you that much more boost above the "low" setting. If your wastegate is 5 psi, you'll run 5 psi on the low setting. If you set your controller to 3 psi, when you flip the switch to "high" you will have 8 psi boost. This system can also be used to "arm" the methanol injection or water injection system so that it only runs on "high" when you need it and doesn't run out of fluid driving around town. System can also be set up so that when the methanol system isn't working (if it runs out of fluid) the boost can be defaulted back to "low" boost as to not damage the engine. Back to Top Will a bigger cam make more power with a turbo? Cam choice in turbo applications is critical. In many cases, a stock cam will work better than a typical "race cam" that would work well with an aspirated engine. What you want to avoid is the "intake and exhaust valve overlap". This is the time that the exhaust and intake valves are open at the same time. In aspirated engines, this theory facilitates the scavenging of all burnt exhaust gasses from the cylinder after the power stroke so that an "uncontaminated" and 100% burnable charge fills the cylinder on the next cycle which produces maximum power. Some of this condition can be tolerated with supercharged applications as it merely blows some of the boost out with the exhaust. However, on turbocharged applications (many people believe that the boost also is just blown out with the exhaust) however, the opposite is truer to the case. With exhaust pressures sometimes exceeding boost pressures, the exhaust can flow into the cylinder and into the intake manifold during this overlap time which contaminates the intake charge, decreases HP, and can cause pre-ignition as well. Also, most cam applications begin flow at .050" of valve lift. On forced induction systems, there can be substantial flow below this amount of lift because of the higher pressures behind the valves. So, if in doubt go smaller on your cam rather than larger. Go wider on lobe separation angles (114 degrees is usually safe) Smaller on durations (stick around 220) and check with the cam manufacturer to make sure that it is a good "turbo" cam and not just a generic supercharger/turbo cam. A good option is to install a set of higher ratio roller rockers on your stock cam. Better pushrods and stiffer valve springs will help as well because boost and cylinder pressures will be way higher than stock. Stiffer springs will help close the valves against the pressure of incoming air and stronger pushrods will help open the exhaust valve against the increased cylinder pressures. Back to Top What type of coating is on the pipes? All of the intake pipes are HPC coated. HPC coating is the leader in thermal coatings. They look great and they don't rust. For more information visit - http://www.hpcoatings.com/ Back to Top Aren't the stock manifolds and exhaust system restrictive? For certain normally aspirated or supercharged systems, stock exhaust is somewhat restrictive and can cause backpressure in the system and rob HP. However, with turbocharged applications, the turbocharger is the biggest restriction in the exhaust system. All of the exhaust gasses (except the ones that are vented out the wastegate) pass through the turbine housing. The inlet hole in the turbine housing is about 2"x3", however, as it scrolls around the housing it gets smaller and smaller causing the exhaust gasses to increase in velocity. At the smallest point where the gasses exit and hit the turbine wheel, the hole is no bigger than about 1" in diameter. This tiny hole will create backpressure in the entire exhaust system prior to the turbo and clear back to the exhaust valves. So sticking larger diameter pipes and high flowing headers doesn't make lots of sense when you have a 1" tailpipe hole. These additions probably won't hurt, but the money would be far better spent elsewhere. Our Turbo Camaro put down 522 RWHP and 620 RWTQ through the same restrictive exhaust manifolds and I-pipe that came stock on the car. Turbocharging is very different than Supercharging or Normally aspirated. That is good news because you don't have to spend the extra money on the exhaust system! Back to Top Will your methanol injection setup work with any turbocharged car? Yes, our Methanol System is designed to work with any turbocharged, supercharged, or even Normally Aspirated engines. We typically will see 100F intake temperature drops with this system. The Octane requirements are lowered, the cylinder temperatures are lowered, and the exhaust temperatures are lowered. It's all good! We installed our Methanol System on a Supercharged Viper. We lowered his intake temperatures from 220F down to 100F. The extra fuel allowed him to lean out his injector map and the water cooled the cylinder temps down enough to add 4 degrees of ignition timing. He lowered his ET from a 10.8 down to a 10.6. He raised his MPH from 134 to 140 MPH! Back to Top How does your methanol system work? Unlike many methanol or water injection systems on the market. Ours doesn't just turn on at a predetermined boost level and dump fluid in, causing flooding at lower rpms and part throttle positions and leaning out at high rpms and WOT. With our Sequential Methanol System, you inject your extra fuel and/or water mixture at the same rate as your stock fuel injectors do. The more throttle you give it, the more fluid goes in. The higher the rpms go, the more fluid goes in. The system is adjustable as to when it kicks on, and also adjustable as to the gallons/minute flow rate, as well as tunable with the Methanol/Water ratio. It is simple to install and easy to adjust and tune for optimum performance. Combine this with our Electronic Dual Stage Boost Controller and set it up to only run on High Boost. You can also set it up so that if the Injection shuts off for any reason, such as it runs out of fluid, the boost controller will default back to low boost. It is a definite "Must Have" for any turbocharged or supercharged vehicle. Back to Top How much cooling is provided by the Methanol system? The amount of intercooling provided by the Methanol Injection System is somewhat varied by how much methanol you are injecting. Here are results of testing we did on the LS1 Camaro: At 5 psi without methanol, the turbo outlet temps were 175F and intake temps were 115F which is about 50% efficient. At 8 psi with the Methanol Injection System running, turbo outlet temps were 225F and intake temps were 70F. This is 94% intercooling efficiency. All this without the cost and installation problems that go along with trying to put a large intercooler into the front of your vehicle. Back to Top Where do you mount the Methanol Injection tank? The tank can mount just about anywhere. We usually stick it in the rear and mount the pump there also just for better weight transfer. FWD's would probably want it up front though. You don't want it to be exposed to a lot of heat though as the Methanol boils at about 150F. We also have several tank sizes to better accommodate individual needs. Back to Top What intake air temps do you get? IATs on vehicles with our intercoolers run about 10-20 degrees above ambient under boost. If you are running 5 psi without an intercooler you should see IATs 50 to 70 degrees above ambient under boost. Back to Top Will this system work with my modified stroker and high stall converter? Yes, the system will work with different engine sizes and converter options. However, we handle these modified cars on an individual basis so that the proper size of turbocharger can be installed with the kit. We have several turbocharger options that we can tailor to suit individual needs without adding extra costs to the kit. We also offer upgraded turbochargers for those who want to get maximum efficiency and HP.
  7. Njaaa, ikke helt, men ikke langt unna. Å bildene er tatt på Revetal, ja.
  8. Bare????? Gidder du låne meg 40 lapper??? Blir ikkeno 4-link her nei. Hvis det en gang må bli stiv aksel, blir det noe ala denne: http://www.maximummotorsports.com/store/images/packgd_sys/MMTASS-3.jpg Krever minimalt ombygging av gulvet, å funkerer helt Maximum.
  9. Tør ikke!!!!! Hjulspinn er vel grunnen til at diff å drivaksler holder, hehehehe. Med slike dekk, skulle jeg nok hatt en "Torque-arm setup" 8.8 toms aksel. Men da hadde jeg jo hatt grep, hehe.
  10. Ja, altså jeg snakket om 402 m da, hehe. Kjørte 9,7 på 201(street legal -99) med gamle toppene å original Granada eksos, hehe. Kjørte åsså 14,3 med 160 km/t på Garder'n(en dag på stripa) med gamle toppene. Vet ikke nå, men har tatt 13,7 med 176 km/t på G-tech'en med nye toppene. Må vel kunne si (det foreløpige) målet er 12 sek på 402.
  11. Ok, for å si det sånn: når jeg kjører mot en som går 11,7 , så ser min treeeeeeiiiiiig ut, men den er jo ikke det, eller hur? Jasså, mer på gang? Ja du har vel ikke inntrykket at den er en "trailer queen" eller no sånt, vel???? Bare gi beskjed, så er jeg med. ;)
  12. Syk sport !!!! Hadde vært kjeeeeeempefornøyd hadde jeg oppnådd 1 G under akselerasjon på min bil.......
  13. Åhhh, jævler!!!! Litt flaks likevel da, siden den ikke gikk rundt. Ser kanskje ut som det gikk bra tross alt. Å ikke minst: For en bildeserie!!! Du fikk litt puls der tenker jeg, hehe.
  14. Ok, må si med enig med trådstarter: den der var syk, definitivt noe av det råeste jeg har hørt. MEN, hvis dere gjør som jeg sier, kan jeg GARANTERE at dere får gåsehud av denne: Denne må IKKE spilles av med bare pc-høyttalere!!! Koble pc'en til stor stereoen i stua, gjerne surround anlegget, for det er en syk "3D" følelse i dette klippet. Sett så på et GREIT volum, sett dere tilbake i godstolen, klikk linken under her, å spill den øverste linken på siden der(BRM full track), med øynene igjen. Er bare et lydklipp, men det er enormt bra kvalitet, til å være fra 50-tallet. Hør så ca 45 sek ut, når pedalen går i bunn, og litt over 2 min, når dan drar forbi tribunen. Du kan bokstavelig talt høre hvor han er hele runden. http://gpl.krej.cz/mp3.html 1953, BRM, V16, 1,5liter, 600hk, 12000RPM. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BRM_British_Racing_Motors_V16
  15. Tja.... Liker denne bedre: http://videos.streetfire.net/search/volvo+ls1/0/9cd6869c-6501-4b46-b004-9884012931f3.htm http://videos.streetfire.net/search/volvo+ls1/0/27dc8f2b-1c66-48a0-ac0e-988a0010832b.htm
  16. Lasta ned å prøvde i kveld ja. Kommer nok til å bli en ny favoritt dette her. MEGET bra kjørefølelse, å skikkelig bra lyd, FOR FØRSTE GANG!!
  17. God ide, jeg skriver bare 2 liter med flammedempere, å oppjustert karburatorfjær.....
  18. Den er jo på side 1!!!! Kan du ikke bare skrive ut den?
  19. Hmmm, kan banne meg se ut som du har rett! Hmm, er visst en stund siden jeg kjørte, hehe.
  20. Seff, har du relevante ting å komme med, så hver så god????? Kan ikke si du gir noe mindre grunn til å tro på RMT etter ditt innlegg!!!!! Det som derimot er ganske vesentlig ved disse tingene som er aktuelt her , er termisk lære, som bla omhandler hvordan temperatur, trykk, å volum påvirker hverandre.
  21. Ja, jeg begynner å få lyst til å teste mot denne, må jeg si, hehe. Du får stå på å bli ferdig, så får vi se.
  22. Vel, ang. hester er det på motor, å DIN net, MEN det var jo omregnet utifra effekten på hjula på rullene, å om det ble riktig da jeg har automat, er jeg ikke sikker på. Ser ikke bort fra at de talla ikke er helt korrekt. Men er de som står på grafen hvertfall(er tidligere i tråden her). Når vi bremset den dagen, hadde alle andre man. gear, å vi fikk ingen andre data enn hk å Nm. Litt for lite info, spør du meg. Tror jeg foretrekker hjulhester, å heller får alle andre data selv, temp, luftfuktighet, osv. En annen ting er jo at i likhet med et tidkort, er hjulhester det du får ut på hjula, altså det du får utnytta. Å for det tredje var jo dette bare et pull, uten noe justering. Tror IKKE at jeg er så heldig at tenning f.eks., bare justert på gefylen, er helt optimal. Ang. streetlegal er jeg litt sånn frustrert, for pga. V8 motor havner jeg jo naturlig nok bestandig i amcar klassen. forsåvidt, et tidkort er et tidkort, men synes det er mer moro å kjøre mot Bimmere, Volvoer, Cossier, Supraer osv. Bilen min er jo ikke en amrikk, hvis dere skjønner. Men på den annen side, da hadde jeg vel havnet i bakhjulstrekk uten overladding, så da er vel flere av disse ute igjen, hehe. Dessuten så er den ikke så strøken på nært hold, lakkeringa ble IKKE bra, så i likhet med deg må jeg kjøre fort, for at folk ikke skal se alle skavankene.;)
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