Sveising av triangelarmer.

[Vegard]

Fant noe på nettet om at en aktuell forsterkning (for rally) var å sveise triangelarmene.

 

Noen som har hørt om eller gjort dette?

 

I tilfelle, hvor og hvordan sveises dette?

[Polo Classic]

Originally posted by Vegard

Fant noe på nettet om at en aktuell forsterkning (for rally) var å sveise triangelarmene.

 

Noen som har hørt om eller gjort dette?

 

I tilfelle, hvor og hvordan sveises dette?

 

Dubsport selger bærearmer som er helsveiset istedet for punktsveiset som orginalene. De selges komplett med poly foringer

[Vegard]

Fant dette, tror det er rally-specs.

 

Front wishbones as per FIA A-5295 02/02 VO drawing 8.

 

Fant også enkelte prosjektgolfer (Mk2) fra Dubsport som hadde disse, men dette var de med råest motorkraft. Ellers var de mye brukt på Mk1, og spesielt på Cab.

 

Noen som vet mer om dette, eller har prøvd selv?

[Roberto]

Dersom det er originale, bare helsveiste, så er det bare å pusse å sveise vel....

[SpeedWell]

Man bør vel være litt forsiktig med dragninger og slikt i stålet. Men, tror jeg må prøve dette på min egen etterhvert. :)

 

Du får komme med tilbakemeldinger om hva du finner ut Vegard.

[Vegard]

Fikk en mail fra en som jeg fant på nettet:

 

Hi there,

 

I've got a copy of all of the drawings that VW Motorsport supplied as well as the homologation papers for the MkII Golf. (somewhere!)

 

The wishbones were seamwelded. The welds were about 4cm long with a 3cm gap between them. The front of the wishbone had a 16 guage steel face and the various holes had 16 guage steel tube weled in. The bottom ball joint was replaced bal a uniball joint. The front "cotton reel" bush and rear doughnut replaced by rosejoints within steel inserts. The rear beam had the "cotton reel" bushes replaced by rosejoints within steel inserts and the rear track width extended to give the same trackwidth front and rear. The rear wheels had variable toe-in. Adding +1.5% toe-in helped on turn in for tight and twisty stages. Parallel track for fast, flowing stages.

The ride height was always as low as possible and the front ride height about 3mm lower than the rear.

We usually avoided max front track width when we were using standrs driveshafts as the strain on full lock gave marginal reliability. When the car was used in its non-homologated form we ran MkIII components (but don't tell anyone!)

 

The wishbones were based around standard spotwelded units but were absolutely bomb-proof and not that much heavier.

The extra weigh (low down) was more than compensated for by the confidence the modificatuons brought.

We also ran a full underguard (aluminium) so ditch-hooking was perfectly safe, apart from when my feet were thown off the pedals. My co-driver has foot straps added to his footrest!

 

The best thing we did was to throw away the standard engine mounts. It may sound silly but being able to lower the engine by 15mm and bring it much further back in the engine bay meant we could change the steering rack and both drive shafts without unbolting things.

 

The gearbox change was also made much faster, about 20 minutes including a clutch. 4 minutes for a driveshaft and 10 for a steering rack.

 

Regards, David Rogers

 

PS I sold the Golf after the 2000 Irish Tarmac Championship.

[Vegard]

Har lagt ut en tråd om emnet her. Får se om noen kan hjelpe...

 

http://www.vwmotorsport.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=605

[EspenB]

Var og kikket litt på de sidene til vw motorsport, og lastet ned en del av disse heftene med tegninger og slikt til grA golf2... kan sjekke om jeg finner noe der.

Har funnet masse annet snacks, med delenummer og greier:)

[Vegard]

Originally posted by Vegard

Har lagt ut en tråd om emnet her. Får se om noen kan hjelpe...

 

http://www.vwmotorsport.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=605

Her er et svar fra tråden:

I have built a set for my rally car and am very happy with the results esp. when I go a bit to fast in then hit something hard!

 

http://www.11tenths.com/Golf-ver201/images/A-arm.jpg

 

In the above photo you can see I have welded a steel plate onto the bottom of the wishbone and I also seam weld the seam between top and botom. On a tarmac car you will need to leave a sway bar mounting point but I am not currently using one so I deleted the mount.

 

As you can see I am using a spherical bearing on the back mount. I recentaly hit a rock wall rather hard after a jump and in the end I sheared off the bolt that mounts the rear of the wishbone thought the bearing. But it was OK we made it through to service and got it fixed to finish 3rd in 2wd. I think we bent the hub a bit but the wishbone and subframe are fine.

 

With out the plate I would be very afraid of hitting a curb or something and finishing my rally right there.