Aeomholt Skrevet Juli 9, 2006 Rapporter Share Skrevet Juli 9, 2006 Noen som vet hva den lille AC-tanken under radiatoren gjør / inneholder? Er det et filter eller en form for tank? (tenker da ikke på tørkefilteret på støtdempertårnet...) Har en som jeg lurte på om det gikk an å gjøre ren Leter også etter koblingsskjema over m(anuell)ac til en -90 740 siden haynesboka kun hadde opp til -89 og var generelt dårlig.. Siter Jo mer man lærer, jo mer skjønner man at man ikke kan. Lenke til kommentar Del på andre sider More sharing options...
Radial Skrevet Juli 11, 2006 Rapporter Share Skrevet Juli 11, 2006 se på 940 du:) Siter - 1996 Jeep Gr. Cherokee, 4L 4x4 -Trekkvogn - 1993 Toyota Mark2, 2,5tt - Driftebil x-1992 Volvo 940 GL - Solgt X-1998 Bombardier Flytog-kunde...9000hk? -brukstog til/fra jobb x-89 Volvo 740GL TURBO, m/godkjente 220hk&387nm *solgt* Lenke til kommentar Del på andre sider More sharing options...
Aeomholt Skrevet Juli 11, 2006 Forfatter Rapporter Share Skrevet Juli 11, 2006 se på 940 du:) Ja, det var meninga det, men sjefen tok ferie før jeg rakk det, men om du har noen bilder blir jeg fornøyd :) Siter Jo mer man lærer, jo mer skjønner man at man ikke kan. Lenke til kommentar Del på andre sider More sharing options...
Radial Skrevet Juli 11, 2006 Rapporter Share Skrevet Juli 11, 2006 virker som om det er konsenseren det snakkes om her... Condenser Replacement. [Query] How do I replace the condenser after I have experienced a large system leak? [Response: Editor] To replace the condenser in a 90+: Remove grill, top grill cover panel, and upper radiator support member Remove the front air baffle, air filter intake and sensor connectors to condenser Remove bottom air baffle between spoiler and radiator bottom Disconnect condenser. (Note: this may be a challenge due to rust and corrosion: use PBlaster) Plug pipes to prevent dirt and moisture from entering system Remove by lifting straight up (careful of chrome!) and once removed, measure the oil that drains out the old one if any Remove pressostat sensors Install foam rubber seals on new condenser (remove from old) and rubber bushings on bottom and/or top Clean oxidation from condenser connectors and ensure you will have a good seal. Add compressor oil in the correct quantity. Reinstall using all-new o-rings coated with mineral oil or an a/c-specific, silicone-based lubricant such as Nylog, and antiseize on the outer threads (don't get this near the o-rings). The lubes noted are not hygroscopic as is the ester or PAG used in the compressor, and therefore will not corrode the fittings. Torques: to condenser: 25 Nm (18.4 ft-lb) from condenser: 20 Nm (14.8 ft-lb) Apply rustproofing liberally to the fittings to prevent corrosion Reinstall other parts and connectors and recharge system. If you had a leak leading to discharge in an R12 system, then convert to R134. Install the correct amount of oil per system specifications. In 1993+ cars, a new type of condenser and compressor pipe termination was used requiring different pipes that terminate in non-screwed ends. Make sure you buy replacement condensers that drop into your car without the need for new pipes. Should I Flush or Install a Filter? [Tip from Underhood Service magazine, Apr 2003] Condensers are trash collectors. Any debris that comes out of the compressor goes straight into the condenser. It’s a low spot in the system so debris and oil naturally collect in the condenser. But the debris doesn’t stay put. Refrigerant flowing through the condenser can pick up debris and carry it to the orifice tube, expansion valve or back to the compressor. Debris can plug up the orifice tube or expansion valve, causing a blockage and loss of cooling. Such blockages also can prevent the circulation of oil in the system, starving the compressor for lubrication. If the condenser is dirty, why not just replace it? That’s what many experts recommend. But condensers are expensive to replace. The alternative is to clean the condenser with an approved flushing chemical that hopefully will remove most or all of the contaminants. Flushing can save a customer a lot of money, but it also increases the risk of a repeat compressor failure or an orifice tube or expansion valve blockage if the flush fails to remove all of the gunk from the condenser. To reduce the risk of residual debris from a flushed condenser passing into the system and causing problems, an in-line filter should be installed in the liquid line after the condenser to trap any debris before it can cause trouble. A filter screen also should be installed in the suction hose at the compressor inlet to trap any junk before it can enter the compressor. Debris can be blown backward into the suction hose and evaporator by a compressor failure, too, so don’t overlook this part of the system if you’re flushing to get rid of contaminants. Hentet fra http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/ Siter - 1996 Jeep Gr. Cherokee, 4L 4x4 -Trekkvogn - 1993 Toyota Mark2, 2,5tt - Driftebil x-1992 Volvo 940 GL - Solgt X-1998 Bombardier Flytog-kunde...9000hk? -brukstog til/fra jobb x-89 Volvo 740GL TURBO, m/godkjente 220hk&387nm *solgt* Lenke til kommentar Del på andre sider More sharing options...
SHN-Motorsport Skrevet Juli 11, 2006 Rapporter Share Skrevet Juli 11, 2006 er sette den svarte tanken fremmi der? hva i fan er den til? jeg har ikke AC men den er der på min! Siter Lenke til kommentar Del på andre sider More sharing options...
Aeomholt Skrevet Juli 11, 2006 Forfatter Rapporter Share Skrevet Juli 11, 2006 Noen som vet hva den lille AC-tanken under radiatoren gjør / inneholder? Er det et filter eller en form for tank? Det er en lyddemper for dere som har en slik en. noen har noen ikke Siter Jo mer man lærer, jo mer skjønner man at man ikke kan. Lenke til kommentar Del på andre sider More sharing options...
SHN-Motorsport Skrevet Juli 11, 2006 Rapporter Share Skrevet Juli 11, 2006 Det er en lyddemper for dere som har en slik en. noen har noen ikke lyddemper for HVA? tror bare jeg røskærn vekk jeg ;) Siter Lenke til kommentar Del på andre sider More sharing options...
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