emilhetty Skrevet Mars 27, 2009 Rapporter Share Skrevet Mars 27, 2009 Er det automatisk eller manuel justering på hydralisk clutch? Siter MVH Emil Horpen Hetty, Vestfossen/Buskerud, Tlf: 90071358 Lenke til kommentar Del på andre sider More sharing options...
lurepåmye Skrevet Mars 27, 2009 Rapporter Share Skrevet Mars 27, 2009 Er det automatisk eller manuel justering på hydralisk clutch?automatisk.. Siter Lenke til kommentar Del på andre sider More sharing options...
emilhetty Skrevet Mars 28, 2009 Forfatter Rapporter Share Skrevet Mars 28, 2009 Men er vel mulig å få justert den forde? Var en luring som mente det gikk ann å justere på den kula som er opplagringa til clutcharmen. Siter MVH Emil Horpen Hetty, Vestfossen/Buskerud, Tlf: 90071358 Lenke til kommentar Del på andre sider More sharing options...
lurepåmye Skrevet Mars 28, 2009 Rapporter Share Skrevet Mars 28, 2009 Men er vel mulig å få justert den forde?Var en luring som mente det gikk ann å justere på den kula som er opplagringa til clutcharmen. om du juster på den så går bare slave sylinder lenger ut.. så det går ikke! Siter Lenke til kommentar Del på andre sider More sharing options...
Erik Braseth Skrevet Mars 28, 2009 Rapporter Share Skrevet Mars 28, 2009 Adjusting the clutch on the M90: The M90 uses a hydraulic clutch which is self-adjusting, so you can not alter the biting point of your clutch. However, sometimes other adjustments needs to be made... and listen carefully because this is important: Check to see that the flywheel you use has the right depth or else the pressure plate will not excert the correct force on the clutch. It will not bite in the right position either. Check to see that the clutch disc has the correct thickness (a little difference in thickness doesn't matter, but several millimeters will). Otherwise we are back to the same problem as described above. When mounting the gearbox to the engine, make it temporary, because you will most likely take it down again after you have read this: The pivot ball which the clutch fork is sitting on may have to be adjusted, especially if you are using a custom flywheel, lightened flywheel or a custom clutch setup (a custom clutch setup means that you are using any other clutch and flywheel than stock). Remove the rubber bellow that is sitting on the clutch fork in the hole on the side of the gearbox. Put some force on the clutch fork just like if you were going to push the clutch. You don't need much force, just enough to see where the clutch fork will be staying once the slave cylinder is pushing lightly on it. It should stick straight out, or preferrably leaning a little bit forward (toward the engine). I prefer the later option and recommend it strongly. If the clutch fork is leaning backwards (toward the rear of the car), you need to take the gearbox down and put washers behind the pivot ball. Then repeat the test again. Why? Because if the clutch fork is not in the right angle, the following things will happen: * The clutch fork will touch the gearbox before it is fully disengaged. * The clutch for will get far away from the slave cylinder, and the piston in the slave cylinder will pop out. If it doesn't, it will still have the wrong angle. http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=94325 Siter Lenke til kommentar Del på andre sider More sharing options...
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