Ts-w5102spl = T40001bd?

[karljoh]

Hei, jeg klarer ikke å forstå hvordan jeg må sette opp koblingene om jeg kjøper en T40001BD til TS-W5102SPL.

 

Stemmer det at det ikke går ann å koble TS-W5102SPL i en ohm?

 

Og stemmer det også at om en forsterker bare har en kanal ut å høytaleren den skal kobles til har 2 spoler kan den bare kobles i 1 eller 4ohm? Eller er det feil?

 

For om det stemmer kan jeg jo bare koble i 4ohm, og da for jeg ikke ønsket effekt ut.......

 

Noen som vett om noe av dette stemmer eller er jeg helt på vill spor, jeg håper på og få koblet den i 2ohm i det minste.

 

Kan dette la seg gjøre? (Si ja plz)

 

 

Rockford Fosgate® - T40001bd

[Markro]

Rockford Fosgate® - Woofer WiringWizard

 

gå litt lengere ned på siden

[Zetec]

5102SPL kan kobles opp i 1, 2 og 4 ohm

 

I 2 ohm håndterer den vel og merke bare halvparten av oppgitt effekt, dvs at man kobler en spole til forsterkeren, og kobler den andre spolen i kortslutning.

 

Men om forsterkeren din tåler 1 ohms last så ville jeg koblet den i 1 ohm. Parallell koble spolene.

[karljoh]

Kan den vikkelig kobles i 1ohm???!!!

 

Dette er ikke W5000SPL, men TS-W5102SPL!

 

Jeg var så sikker på at denne modelen ikke kunne kobles i 1ohm.

Kan den virkelig det, er det flere som også mener den kan det der ute?

 

Å ett spørsmål til tror noen denne forsterkeren "Lanzar Optidrive 6000D" kan passe til TS-W5102SPL?

 

Her er en del info jeg fant om den på nette: I have always liked purpose-built products. It seems to me that frills and doodads only add cost, and don’t change the performance. For example, I ride a Harley Davidson, and so do a lot of my friends. The difference is, while some of my riding buddies have 10 grand in chrome, trick paint and so on, I prefer to spend my money on a better bike to begin with, and then outfit it with more useful stuff instead of decorations. For the price of my buddy Rick’s rear wheel, I bought a GPS… for what he spent on paint, I got a big bore kit and pipes… You get the idea. Well, the Lanzar Optidrive 6000D appeals to me for those same reasons. It’s built with a real purpose, to drive almost any load you want to connect to it, and deliver gobs of power to that load. And it does that very well.

 

Cosmetics

 

The big Lanzar amp is simply but elegantly finished in brushed aluminum, with the colour giving the appearance of raw metal. It just looks meaningful, and when you pick it up, you realize just how meaningful. The thing weighs over 20kg or just over 46 pounds! It’s about 28 inches long, 11.5 inches wide, and 3 inches tall. The end panels are straightforward painted sheetmetal, and all the connections and controls are clearly marked. No chrome widgets, no dancing lights, just everything you need to control the serious power this amplifier makes.

 

Power and ground connections accept 1/0-awg cable, and if you push this amp to its limits, you’re going to need it. The speaker connections will accept 8-awg cable, and again, you may need it. The RCA connections are rugged-looking panel mounts, adding to the meaningful appearance.

 

Manual

 

The owner’s manual is written to cover this model and the “little” brother, the 4000D. It’s fairly simple and provides all the basics you need to get up and running. For those who prefer pictures, there are clearly drawn illustrations and call-outs for the various connections and controls. There is a page that shows how to connect two of these amps together to drive a single load. Oh, and if you think that’s a good idea, I’ll warn you now you better have some serious power handling capability in your woofer system, as well as an abundance of supply current available. There is a page of specifications, with the usual amount of inaccuracies and blatant optimism, but most of the data provided is roughly in the ballpark. It’s always baffling to me when a manufacturer can’t get the product dimensions correct in the manual, but I’ll leave that alone for now.

 

Features

 

Again, the features included are what you’d expect from a meaningful, no-nonsense type of amp. There are the usual controls, such as gain, crossover frequency, and bass boost, and there are also controls for a 15-40Hz subsonic filter, and a phase control to allow you to adjust the timing of the output signal, relative to your other amps. It’s surprising how much difference this control can make in improving the staging of a car, and enhancing the ability to make the woofers blend better with the rest of the system. It’s also very useful in SPL vehicles with large mic to woofer path-length differences, allowing the pressure waves to sum at the mic more in synch, and therefore, louder. The amp includes a remote gain control, and a special cable for synchronizing two amps together (!), as well as RCA outputs for feeding signal to a second amp.

 

Design

 

The Lanzar Optidrive 6000D is a very solid, high performance amplifier. I took the bottom cover off the amp, and I found out why it weighs so much… this thing is full of serious “get the job done” kinds of parts. To handle the high current this amp will demand, there are two massive, fan-cooled power supply torroids with multi-strand twisted windings, each one several inches in diameter. There are literally dozens of power supply and output devices, each capable of switching very high currents at very high speeds. I also noted extensive output switching noise filtering, which was also fan-cooled!

 

The build quality inside the amp was good to excellent. I saw no evidence of cold solder joints, or any type of post production repairs or “skywires.” The heavy torroids and big electrolytic capacitors are also bonded to the double-sided PCB with adhesive to prevent any vibration-related failures or them “singing” on their own.

 

There are multiple 8-gauge, high-current wires used to get the current where it needs to be, thus avoiding running those huge currents on a PCB where they can cause noise and oscillation issues. The amp uses 1% tolerance through-hole parts, and has the appearance of being carefully assembled. It’s very impressive.

 

My only gripe is a small one, but it’s all too common. There are three different sizes of hex-head screws on the power / speaker / remote connections. Why? Some brands can do it with only one wrench, two at most, but three? Someone wasn’t thinking like an installer…

 

Performance / Listening

 

I hooked the Optidrive 6000D to my woofer system, and as I expected from an amp this size, the amount of power available was immediately noticeable. The headroom provided by this big an amplifier is always an amazing thing to play with. It’s one of those rare times when you have so much power that the acoustic output is the limiting factor, instead of waiting for the amp to clip. Amazing, and totally enjoyable!

 

Even with a 4Ω load impedance, the big Lanzar amp gave my woofer system everything it could handle, without even breaking a sweat. Having this kind of power in your audio system is like having a blown big block motor in a Miata: no matter what the situation, you always have more power waiting to be unleashed. Tons of fun this, but you need to be careful.

 

The sonics of the amp were actually quite good for a big Class D amp, with very little of that annoying Class D “sound” that makes me prefer a conventional Class AB amp on the woofers in my own car. The bass was tight and controlled, and with this much power available, listening was just plain fun! This amp sounds very good, and my only real concern was having enough personal restraint to not overdrive my woofers. And believe me, unless you have plenty of large woofers to absorb this much available power, it’s really easy to do. (Don’t ask.) I can see this amp doing pretty well in the SPL wars.

 

Performance / Bench Measurements

 

After I was thoroughly impressed by the power available during my listening session, I put this behemoth on the bench and got down to gathering some numbers from it. The specs in the manual called for 3kW at 4Ω, 4kW at 2Ω, and an astounding 6kW at 1Ω. It did not, however, state at what distortion level those numbers would be attained at, so the printed spec is a bit meaningless. The mighty Cogent test bench is good for up to 16,000 watts of output, and I use a very high quality low noise power supply that will allow me to supply an amp with up to 700A of current at any voltage between 1V and 16V. I dug out my 1/0 power cables and hooked this baby up for some real-world continuous power testing.

 

While my power measurements were all a bit shy of the printed specs, (see detailed specs below) I can tell you that this Lanzar is one of the top ten most powerful amplifiers I have tested in over 20 years on a test bench. This thing is very, very powerful. And, if you’re planning on using one of these babies to its maximum potential, I can tell you that at full chat into 1Ω, my supply was delivering just shy of 600 amps of current!

 

It gets a little nerve-wracking, sitting there with your hand on the Audio Precision’s throttle and the amp sizzling right next to you, drawing nearly 600 amps and making thousands of watts of output. Now you know why the guy running the engine dyno has a wall between him and the motor he’s testing. Maybe in my next lab…

 

As powerful as it is, I would have expected the Lanzar to be noisy as well, but that was not the case. The S/N ratio was a very respectable -69.8dBA at an output of 1 watt, (per CEA-2006A) and a very clean -103.2dBA referenced to full 4Ω power. This kind of performance is a testament to the Lanzar engineers who did the PCB layout: it is one of the quietest big Class D amps I’ve seen in a while. Nice work.

 

The rest of the specs also measured well, the crossover and subsonic filters performing as advertised, and the phase shift allowing for up to 198 degrees of shift at 100Hz. The subsonic filter does have about 3dB of roll-off at 20Hz, and that roll-off limits the amount of power that can be claimed in the CEA-2006A Power spec below. The amp had a very low idle current for such a monster, at only 2.1 amps, and was about average in efficiency, with a full 2Ω power efficiency number of 74.5%. The 6000D can be driven to full power with only 190mV of input signal, and had no turn-on or turn-off noises whatsoever.

 

Conclusion

 

This amp simply isn’t for everyone. You need a serious charging system, and I’d suggest at least four very capable woofers to handle this powerhouse. Or, if maybe you want to compete in SPL wars, the Lanzar Optidrive 6000D would be a good choice.

 

It’s a serious amp, for serious systems, and for guys like me who like to have fun and don’t mind changing woofers every week.

 

 

Så noen som tror den passer til TS-W5102SPL?

(Trenger raskt sver skal kjøpe veldig snart, fint om noen kunne komme med noen meninger her. Jeg vil ha max effekt ut av høytaleren;)

[karljoh]

Noen som vet noe om Lanzar Optidrive 6000D?

Passer den forsterkeren til TS-W5102SPL tro?

 

Å hvordan kobler mann en forsterker med bare en ut gang på en høytaler med 2 spoler for å få 1ohm?

[CV-Gunnar]

Ser du vurderer RF T40001BD, har en slik selv som driver CV stroker PRO 15 og jeg er ihvertfall utrolig fornøyd:) Helt rå forsterker etter min mening:)

 

Og ja, den takler 1 ohms last veldig fint.

[morbid]

5102 har 2x2ohm spoler og kan følgelig kobles i 1 og 4 ohm

[blogz]

Noen som vet noe om Lanzar Optidrive 6000D?

Passer den forsterkeren til TS-W5102SPL tro?

 

Å hvordan kobler mann en forsterker med bare en ut gang på en høytaler med 2 spoler for å få 1ohm?

 

Ved å koble to ledniger i samma terminalen.... en leding til hver spole. I 1Ohms tilfellet ditt kobler du 2 røde kabler inn på den positive terminalen på forsterkeren og til hver sin positive terminal på elementet. Deretter kobler du to sorte kabler inn på den negative polen på forsterkeren og så en til hver negative terminal på elementet. Da er elementet koblet paralellt og laster forsterkeren med 1Ohm såsant begge spoelene er på 2ohm hver.

Skal du ha det i 4 ohm kobler du spolene etterhverandre. Pluss forsterker-pluss til den enespolen-negative polen på samma spole-positive termianlen på DEN ANDRE spolen-negative siden av den igjen blir koblet til den negagtive delen av forsterkeren.

Skal du ha det hele i 2Ohm MÅ du ha et element til. Og kjøre en kobinasjon av serie og paralellkobling. Ved å enten seriekoble spolene og paralell koble elementetne eventuelt motsatt. Dette var en dørgende kjedelig time på elektro, men duverden så nytti når man driver med anlegg:D

[Markro]

Jeg har ts-w 5102spl selv. jeg bruker pioneer prs2000d spl. er veldig fornøyd med dette.

[karljoh]

Tror dere at Lanzar Optidrive 6000D også kan være ett godt valg?

Skal kanskje kjøpe den på ebay:)