Jap_Power

En sånn Skyline koster noen hundre tusen, tipper jeg.

:thumb Får ta med Mazda RX-2 også da... Får ikke nok GT-R.

Skyline GT-R (160 hk) ble introdusert i 1969. Første Z-modell kom i 1969 (161 hk).

Skulle tro det, ja.

Hold oss oppdatert på det da. :thumb

Måtte bare legge ut denne også:

Bra. Gå for turbokit. :crazysant

Må ikke glemme at det ikke sitter en CA-motor i bilen til Taviren da. Må bygges om litt.

GA16DE du har da?

Keep it clean. :)

Tulling-drift. http://www.funny-base.com/videos1/bmwdrift.wmv Close call. http://www.funny-base.com/videos1/aclosecall.wmv En litt for stor oppgave. http://www.funny-base.com/videos1/toomuchweight.wmv ....... :usa: http://www.funny-base.com/videos1/snow-car-slide.wmv

Sitter nok en E eller GA motor i den originalt.

Coilovers til N12: http://www.cmsperformance.net/

Hehe, helt sikkert E15ET! :) Nei, jeg har ikke peiling dessverre.

http://file.yashi.com/1/movie/121358.mpeg m'm

Jeg syns det er stas å trimme/style en bil som det ikke er så lett å finne deler til. Har gjennom fire år som Sunny eier lært veldig mye og funnet ut mye om Sunny, spesielt N13. Det har vært dyrt, men det får jeg igjen som glede i bilen. Den kommer aldri til å selges.

http://www.nismoparts.com/catalog/?section=339 - Nismo deler. (Euro Camshaft har du allerede.)

Litt om trim: I know there is only a small, but dedicated group of you B11 people out there, and good useable performance tips are far and few between. So here's a few ideas for your old Sentra or Pulsar. If you aren't worried about emission tests, and you have an '84 and up B11, you might want to dump that heavy restrictive iron exhaust manifold, with the pre-catalyst in it, for one from an '87 or '88 E16 or . These manifolds are shorter, lighter, and flow better than the earlier ones. You will need to replace [or modify] your front exhaust pipe however, as it will be too short for the later manifold. While your at it, why not take a die grinder and a carbide grinding bit, and port out the new manifold as well. Every little bit helps. Next, you might want to get rid of the troublesome "hopeless chokeless" electronic feedback carburetor, and replace it with a weber 32/36 progressive downdraft replacement, which uses an adapter, to mount. I replaced the stock cam with a Nissan Motorsport # 13020-25M00 "Euro" cam. It is a nice street cam that is O.E. in the European [non-emission] market. And if your crank angle sensor, [a.k.a. distributor] craps out, you can use the regular electronic ignition distributor assy. from an '82 or '83 B11/N12, and ditch the ECU completely. Then you can set the timing where you want it, and not have the ECU constantly changing the timing on you. Are we having fun yet? OK, how about improving the handling? My rear control arm bushings were shot, [they are really wishy-washy soft bushings in the first place]. Have you ever kicked the rear wheel of a B11 Sentra while it was on a jack, and saw the wheel wobble? Ah, the joys of owning a B11. Well, I took out the rear arms, and replaced the stock bushings with urethane bushings from Energy Suspensions. What's that? They don't offer them for an old Sentra? That's right. I bought a set for a Mustang GT, and had a friend cut them down in his lathe. Then, while reinstalling them, [with silicone grease] I added a set of aftmkt. camber adjusters to set the rear camber at .5 deg. neg both sides. I then bought a rear sway bar from Nissan Motorsport, [it was an Addco] and added that. Next was wheels and tires. I bought a really nice set of factory 15" '97 Altima alloy wheels. I mounted Bridgestone Potenza RE71 tires on them, 195/50-ZR15. These fit great on the front, but the rears rubbed a bit on the inside. I had to use ¼" wheel spacers, along with some longer lug studs [Napa]. Then they needed just a bit more room on the inside where the inner tire sidewall, passes the lower control arm. I ground a bit of clearance into the lower control arm, and I was all set. Lastly, I replaced the front sway bar bushings with urethane ones, and I now have a really good handling car. Mine is a manual steering car, and the responce is quick. I've probably got a few more mods to tell about, but this post is getting long. I'll have to post more later. Does anyone have any good B11 performance tips to share? I know there is a small group of you out there who fool with the old Sentras! ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ [How many of these will work on the B12?] Five out of eight will work. Assuming you have an '87 B12 sedan or hatchback [not including the sport coupe hatch], with a carbureted E16, the Weber carb, the '82-'83 dist, the Euro-cam, and the ex. manifold porting will all help. You might want to opt. for the Pacesetter header, if they still make them. The last time I bought one was about three years ago, and I had to wait a few months for them to get enough orders to make another "batch" of them. On my B12, I did a cheap wheel upgrade by using a set of '87-'90 sport coupe alloy 14X5.5" wheels, with the black center caps. I ran 185/60-R14's on them. I read in the Nissan Motorsport cat that the sport coupes also had larger diameter sway bars too. That's another cheap upgrade for B12 people. As far as dealing with a throttle body injected B12, be it an E16i or a GA16i, these offer very little in the way of increasing performance in any big way. The throttle body injection is the major restriction here, in my opinion. That's why on my B12, I am replacing the GA16i, with a '93 GA16DE. Then you've got something to work with. Especially with the new turbo kit becoming available shortly. How about brakes? I used the front calipers and rotors from the station wagon version of the B12. They have vented rotors and larger [AD18V] calipers. It's a direct bolt-on, and another cheap junkyard priced upgrade. OK, anybody care to add anything to this potpourri of low dollar, early Sentra performance upgrades? I'd love to hear your experiences. I started to run my '86 B11 Sentra at some rallycross events here in the northeast, and got tired of bottoming out the exhuast system. I needed some stiffer front springs. To stay with the low dollar approach, I had to search the boneyard for something that would fit. Well, I found that front struts and springs from an M10 Stanza wagon will work, with slight modification. First, you'll need to cut 1.5 coils off of the springs, for proper ride height. I found this out by cutting off a half a coil at a time until I got it right. Secondly, you have to use the strut tops off of the original B11 struts. That's right, the coil springs are the same diameter, it all goes together fine. Lastly, the M10 struts are about a ¼" wider at the bottom mounting points, where the two bolts go through the spindle. I had to make ¼" steel shims and drill two mounting bolt holes in them. Now, for practically pennies, I had some serious rally springs up front. Keep in mind, this is a gutted race car, so I don't know what it would ride like on the street. I also built a tubular steel skid plate, to protect my Pacesetter header. Now, for the front brake upgrade. Most people don't know that Nissan made B11 diesel Sentras. They have better front brakes than a gas B11. They offer thicker 18mm vented rotors, and larger AD20V calipers. The pads have 30% more area. The front hubs are different, so you'll need them too. You can buy the set-up used at the junkyard, or buy it all new, from Nissan motorsport. Here's another small upgrade for the clutch. My clutch started to slip after I built up my E16. The disc was fine. I saw in the Motorsport catalog, that the clutch assy. from the B11's were interchangeable with the Datsun 210 [b310]. So I went to factory shop manuals, and looked up the pressures of the clutch covers, As expected, the RWD 210 cover offered a higher clamping force, than the FWD B11. I had a new 210 clutch cover in my basement, so I put it in, and never had the clutch slip again. I also upgraded the driver's seat to one from an N12 Pulsar. They are a direct fit, and have much more bolster support than a crappy B11 seat. I could do without the tiger-striped upholstery though! I still run my B11 race car occaisionally, but I have to admit that I now am getting into B13's, because they are now older, and affordable. I have got a pile of B11 and B12 high performance parts. Things like Motorsport engine insulators [motor mounts for E-engines], 4.17 ring and pinion gears, for the B11 five speeds, [stock gears in a B11 range from 3.55 to 3.89]. I also have an extra [new in box] E16 Motorsport "Fuel injection" big valve head part# 11041-15M00, with all new valves. I have two E16 Isky cams, and also, a very trick downdraft carburetor intake manifold, that I custom built. I can scan pictures of it, and email to you guys if you want a look at it. It is based on an old Ford Pinto aluminum intake, which has four individual runners coming off a common plenum, instead of the E16's two small siamesed runners, that split again right at the ports. I also have some pictures of a supercharger intake that I never heli-arced together. I built it for my 70 cu. in. two lobe roots blower. Yeah, I know what your thinking, he's nuts! ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ We all know that no one ever made a performance downdraft intake manifold for our beloved E-engines. The stock piece only has a single runner coming out of the carb plenum, which splits into two, right before the cyl head. Not a very good design, from a performance standpoint. I had no choice but to build a custom manifold. I looked at other O.E. 4 cyl. intakes. I found that the old 2.0L Pinto intake had nearly correct port spacing, and four individual port runners coming out of the carb plenum. This is the same intake used on Formula Ford spec racers. I got one for $25 at the junkyard. I glass beaded it, and sawed off the stock manifold flange. Next, I used a piece of ½" aluminum stock to make a new flange out of. I scribed the outline of the E16 gasket on it. Then I milled out the holes on a milling machine. Then I had it heliarced together, which was followed by some porting to blend the welds and match the ports in the E16 head. It worked out great! I ran a larger carb off of an '83 Nissan pickup [Z24 engine] and the thing pulls hard to about 6,700 rpm. Sometimes when you want something bad enough, you've got to make it yourself. To see the pics go to: http://www.printroom.com/ViewAlbum....album_id=69157. Click on the pics twice to get the full size pic.

Har ikke du postet om dette før?

180SX : CA18DET, SR20DE, SR20DET 200SX : CA18E, CA18ET, CA18DET, SR20DET 240SX : KA24E, KA24DE Alt ettersom årsmodell og hvor den ble solgt. Er sikkert noen SX gutter her som kan fylle inn mer.

Husker ikke noe forum, men det er noen interessante artikler inne på http://www.n12turbo.com .

Finnes kanskje noen svar her: http://www.n12turbo.com/

Indeed.

Almera Tuning. Nismo. ! X-Racing. Giacuzzo. Jetspeed. Trenger ikke gjøre mye for å få en fin og ren Almera. Her er den velkjente Lagunaleppa.

Om du ikke ser det med egne øyne kan det leses av chassis nummeret. E13S/E15S/E16S ser ca. sånn ut: E16i ser ut som en E16S, bare at den har noen injection-greier, en slags boks rundt luftfilterboksen. GA15/GA16DS ser ca. sånn ut: GA16DE: CA16DE/CA18DE: