clone baby

Hehe, dette blir gromt dette!! hvordan har du tenkt og stive opp bilen?

Er det bare meg eller er det ikke lyd på filmene? bruker no linux suse 9.2 så hvis det er noen som vet hva jeg trenger for og få lyd på det så gi en lyd :rolleyes:

Den blåe til høyre?

I'm in! :cool:

Var bra oppmøte, men det som drepte hele treffet var politiet og været, fatter ikke hvorfor vi ikke fikk være der når det står att vi kan oppholde oss der til kl 21.00. Noen som har bilder forresten?

Hva skjer hvis jeg ikke gjør det?

Noen som kan svare på det? har det problemet tror jeg, saken er att når jeg gir flat pedal så ebber/huppler bilen opp i aks når jeg har litt turtall, og da jeg så på tenn pluggene så var de hvite, eller litt grå hvite. kan det være for mye tenning? fortenning? ettertenning? og HAR jeg tennings bank??? kan det være tett benzin filter? (89mod colt turbo innsp.) Meeeeeeeeeen saken er att dette er 2. dag jeg har hatt dette problemene og begge dagene regnet det noe jævlig, kan det være fukt? overslag i plugger?

Samme med oss her i bergen, ved shel på lagunen. Ble sotte opp 2 søyler med kjetting mellom, ikke lenge etter fikk vi en trofast venn til og tippe den ene søylen over ende :) Nå er det råning 24/7 sombrero

Prosjekt: Kosekjøring: Familiebil: Sommerbil: hehe :)

Haha! tror jeg tar turen ned for og se hvordan tilstanden er, er jo 10 min ifra meg dette :)

Fy faen! :rolleyes: Syntes bilen var fet jeg og bra gjennomført, hadde lixom ikke vurdert og kjøpt den da, nå som jeg liker att bilene skal være clean og robust sombrero

Jah, alltid en kose jobb og polere en bil man er glad i , serlig den ae86'en! Skulle jeg lakkert min framtidlige ae86 så skulle det vært i panda fargene (svart-hvit) Slik den på bilde over :) Eller grå og svart slik som den nedunder.. Ae86 som pickup? huff! men fant en 200sx som pickup notin En skam!

Jepp, til og med den! Orginal og pen! :titties:

Trenger ikke og se filmen for og fortelle att den ae86'en er fet, ALLE ae86 er fete :D Skidracer: Hvor mye tror du de påskrudde bredde skjermene som man ofte ser på de koster?

Smokape! Begynner du og se lyset i enden av tunellen nå elle? heh.. Blir bra dette! (fyrings i helgen ja beer)

Jepp, om vintere skal bilen ligge i dvale ;)

Så ikke billig ut den cross karten der :titties:

Hehe, var vell det jeg linka til i forige post :P

Mener du jeg er frekk?? Satt 1 time med og legge dette inn, slik att det skulle være lett tilgjengelig for andre, og da i alt rotet glemte jeg og legge kildereferanse, sorry ass ;) Link

Trekker ujevnt framover når du kjører?

Jeg håper dette var nyttig info ang. opp pussing av bil, for jeg ble kjøl veldig insperert til og gjøre det samme med colten min :)

Dash / Electrics I haven't used the car for a few weeks now owing to the suspected gearbox problem (I can't bring myself to take it off at the moment for some reason). In the meantime I've been messing with the wiring for the fuel pump, rad fan, map light, fuse box and relays etc (ie. all the bits you add to a rally car which are not incorporated in a standard RS wiring loom). I had wired these up previously but had not included relays in the wiring and a friend of mine pointed out that this was not a good thing! I've made an alloy fuse panel which I've attached to the side of the passenger footwell. This houses a 10 way blade type fuse box and some neat relay holders which I've mounted above it. The fuse box is connected to a new alloy centre console (from Prepfab) with a wiring harness I've made up. Each switch circuit is fused and feeds to a relay which in turn powers a fused circuit to the relevant accessory (i.e. fan or pump etc). I have mounted the standard Escort heated rear window and hazard warning light switches in this panel as well. The holes for these were a bit of a pain to cut out but I think it looks OK. I have also mounted the FIA cut off switch and the pull for the plumbed in fire extinguisher in the panel together with the standard RS cigar lighter socket which a potti can be run off. I've just got a bit more wiring to do (I've run out of cable) then it's done and I'll then have a go at the dreaded gearbox!

On the Road! I've had the car on the road for about 8 weeks now trying to put the 500 running in miles on the car before I can take it back for it's final rolling road session and re-torque of tappets, bolts etc. It's a bit boring to drive to be honest as I am restricted to 3000rpm during the engine run in and this means about 50mph in 5th with the 4.4 diff. I have done about 350 miles as it stands now. The cam is just coming in at 3000 as well so it's tempting............ Another issue is the 14 or so miles to the gallon it does! I am still tweaking and modifying things at the moment as well. The engine builder did not like the fuel pump mounted horizontally so I have changed and mounted it on one of Prepfab's vertical mounting brackets. I have also fitted a Prepfab navigators alloy foot rest. Some small issues with the car I have encountered are: - a melted clutch cable (now replaced and heat wrapped) - bonnet flying off then being run over by car following me (note to self: remember to secure bonnet pins in future) - gearbox mounting rubber too soft (box was hitting tunnel over bumps - sorted by Prepfab - cheers Rich!) - rear brakes sticking on (bled up again and now seem OK) - leaking brake fluid from hose joints (silicone brake fluid = expensive) - exhaust blowing (taken off and refitted) - noises from gearbox or clutch (both brand new so to be investigated) - snapped front number plate - adjustable panard rod tower adjusting it's height on it's own (now welded in fixed position) - coil to dizzy wiring coming apart (not easy to find to say the least) The ancillary wiring (fuel pump/rad fan/fuses etc) is out at the moment as I am re-doing the mounting plates for these. I'm not sure whether to use an alloy centre console or to try and mount everything out of sight.

Final Assembly I've not updated the site for a while so here's where the car is up to. I had problems with the exhaust manifold fouling the steering rack which held me up for a while - turned out I was using the wrong mounts! Thanks to Richard Lepley at Prepfab for his help with these. The engine now sits straight in the engine bay rather than at an angle. I managed to get a new alternator and starter motor off e-bay for the car. The alternator is a Sierra one rated at 70 amps - I needed to cut the standard RS plug off the loom for this though and fit ring terminals as the fittings are different. Sometime ago I was told that the Dellorto twin 40DHLA carbs I had would not be up for the job. I managed to sell these and got some money together to buy some new Weber 45s. These on their own are not cheap but when coupled with the purchase of a new manifold, replacement new trumpets (the standard ones are too long), new K&N filters, and a twin cable linkage the cost is horrendous. I didn't get much change out of a grand. I recommend Chatsworth Motor Spares at Chesterfield for the Weber stuff - not for the price but for the advice given. The exhaust I've used is a 2.25" ashley system mated to a 3 piece manifold. This is a temporary arrangement as I want to fit a full 2.5" Prepfab system when I eventually rally the car. It'll do nicely to run the car in on though. The radiator is a Prepfab alloy one with a Spal electric fan attached. The fan is controlled via a thermostatic switch in the header of the rad. This switch originates from a VW Golf. I've had to make hoses up as I could not locate any standard ones which would fit. The top hose is a standard RS one cut and joined to suit the top rad outlet. This was joined using an alloy joining piece from Rally Design. The bottom hose is standard RS but too close to the front of the engine block for my liking. Heater hoses have been bodged and joined from various Ford hoses I had lying around. Ignition-wise there is a Lumenition performance kit which included the matching coil - these are mounted on an alloy panel on the passenger side inner wing. Magnacore 8mm competition silicone leads have been used as well. The gearbox went if very easily thanks to the big tunnel but it was a bit of a job modifying the gearbox mounting to suit the wider tunnel - this took 3 attempts and I'm still not 100% with it now. I had a propshaft made up by Wilson Driveshafts in Nottingham as the one I had was too short. The last thing I have done is filling the fluids. On the advice of the engine builder I am going to run the engine in on Valvoline Racing, the gearbox oil is Silkoline 75/90 Fully Synthetic (advice on grade from Tran-x - they suggested Millers though but I couldn't get it!), the axle oil is Castrol specific for LSDs. Although it doesn't really warrant it I'm using Castrol SRF synthetic brake fluid. I put it in in case I upgrade the brakes in the future to save replacing pipes (apparently you can't mix it with the normal DOT 3/4/5 stuff). Anyway I have since regretted this with the fluid to the rear brakes leaking out over the course of a week (pipe not tight enough) - I had to buy another litre and it's expensive stuff. While I'm on the subject of brakes I had a problem with the rear callipers sticking on after I had bled up the brakes. To cut a long story short there needs to be a bit of play left in the master cylinder rod on the handbrake and in the pedal box to allow the fluid to go back after the brakes have been applied. Failing to diagnose this problem was stressful to say the least. Oh and another thing cellulose paint does not like SRF brake fluid no matter what people tell you. That's it for now. The cars booked in to the engine builders next Monday to be started and have it's initial rolling road set up so I'm nearly done!

Engine (2) I got the engine back from the builders (John Noble Motorsport) yesterday. Looks like they have done a good job but it wasn't the cheapest quote I got to have it done so I am hoping it will be decent. In addition the the other news parts I have had a new Piper BP300 Cam kit fitted with double valve springs. The head had to be modified slightly on the spring seats to accomodate these. This is driven by a vernier with a new cam belt. I have also had ARP Big End Bolts fitted for added security. New head bolts were used and a Felpro head gasket and a new water pump. For some reason they have stuck temperature sensing stickers on the core plugs (see pics) - they probably don't trust me to look after it! Nobles have timed the cam in and also static timed the Aldon distributer I've bought but it'll still need a good rolling road session when it's done. The flywheel clutch face has also been skimmed as there were signs of micro cracking. Within a few hours of getting it home it was fitted in place in the engine bay. I had been worried about the block touching the bulkhead having heard from friends that they have had problems with this. Mine is OK though. Thank you to Jason for his help putting it in.